The Favorite Team Football Helmet was inspired by my almost 6-year-old son. He loves football just like his dad and will be playing football for the first time this fall. This completely customizable hat can be made in any colors to show your team spirit for any team. I also include ideas for adding letters, numbers and mascots to the sides of the helmets for the ultimate football fan.
For this tutorial, I will be working the Toddler size. ll other sizes can be purchased in my pattern stores:
Sizes available in download:
- Newborn fits 14” head circumference
- Infant (3 months) fits 16” head circumference
- Baby (6 months) fits 18” head circumference
- Toddler (1–2 years) fits 19” head circumference
- Preschooler (3-5 years) fits 20” head circumference
- Child (6-10 years) fits 21” head circumference
- Teen/Small Adult fits 22” head circumference
- Medium Adult fits 23” head circumference
- Large Adult fits 24” head circumference
- I-5.5 mm hook; I use a Clover hook which I have found creates a slightly smaller stitch. I also tend to be a really tight crocheter. For these two reasons, I highly recommend working up a gauge swatch ahead of time. (See below in Pattern Notes for directions on working up a gauge swatch).
- F-3.75mm hook
- Worsted Weight yarn. I used I Love This Yarn by Hobby Lobby. You will need up to 100g or 175 yards of the main color and up to 11g or 20 yards of accent color. (This only includes yarn needed for the helmet, earholes and pinstripe, extra yarn will be needed if you choose to applique letters, numbers or mascots on the sides of the helmet). Aran yarn would be an acceptable substitute if you don’t have access to worsted weight yarn.
- Stitch markers (I use paperclips)
- Yarn or tapestry needle to weave in ends and sew on appliques if desired
- 15 hdc and 11.5 rows = 4” square; use a different size hook or yarn to obtain proper gauge (See below in Pattern Notes for directions on working up a gauge swatch)
Abbreviations and Stitches Used: in US terminology
- Ch – chain stitch
- Dc – double crochet
- Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
- Hdc – half double crochet
- Hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches together
- MC – Magic Circle
- Rnd(s) – round(s)
- Sc – single crochet
- Sl st – Slip Stitch
- St – stitch
- Tog – together
- Yo – yarn over
- Crochet 1 sc and 1 hdc together – Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook
- Crochet 1 hdc and 1 sc together – yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
- Pattern is written in US terms
- Read pattern in its entirety first
- Always work a gauge swatch first. Each crocheter crochets with a different tension. I tend to crochet really tight. To complete a gauge swatch, I crochet a 5”x5” square in the stitch or pattern specified. This is so that at least the first and last row and the sides will not be included in my 4”x4” square. I then measure how many stitches and rows are in my square. If it is too small (you have more stitches or rows than specified), then you move up a hook size or two. If it is too big (you have fewer stitches or rows than specified), then you move down a hook size or two. The goal is to reach a gauge that is as close as possible to the pattern writer’s. It may seem like a waste of time, but I always find that it is worth it in the end; especially with fitted, wearable items. If you are not within ¼” when I give the diameter measurement for the crown of the hat in each pattern size, you should check your gauge and work a gauge swatch if you haven’t already.
- When working in rounds, I always start with a magic circle; there are many great tutorials on the internet
- When working in rounds, the ch1 or ch2 NEVER count as the first stitch
- I work this hat in an amigurumi style which means you do not join at the end of each round or chain up to begin a new round. You use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each row. For example: Round 1 has 5 stitches and Round 2 has 10 stitches. At the end of Round 1, you do not join, you go on and work the first 2 stitches of Round 2 into the top of the first stitch of Round 1. Remove your stitch marker from Round 1 and place it in the first stitch of Round 2. Move your stitch marker at the beginning of each round
Toddler (1–2 years)
Rnd 1: MC, ch1, work 8 hdc in circle. Pull tail tight. (8 total stitches)
Rnd 2: Work 2 hdc in each st around. (16)
Rnd 3: *Work 2 hdc in 1st st, work 1 hdc in next st;* repeat from * to * (24)
Rnd 4: *Work 2 hdc in 1st st, work 1 hdc in next 2 st;* repeat from * to * (32)
Rnd 5: *Work 2 hdc in 1st st, work 1 hdc in next 3 st;* repeat from * to * (40)
Rnd 6: *Work 2 hdc in 1st st, work 1 hdc in next 4 st;* repeat from * to * (48)
Rnd 7: *Work 2 hdc in 1st st, work 1 hdc in next 5 st;* repeat from * to * (56)
Rnd 8: *Work 2 hdc in 1st st, work 1 hdc in next 13 st;* repeat from * to * (60)
*Pause here and make sure the crown measures between 5” and 5.25“ in diameter.
Rnds 9 – 18: Work 1 hdc into each st around. (60)
*Pause here and make sure the length of the hat measures just short of 6“ from crown to bottom of hat when folded in half. If not, continue to add until you reach this measurement.
Work sc into next 2 st and then a sl st into following 2 st to finish off the spiral. Do not finish off.
Earflaps will be worked in rows.
Row 1: ch 1, work 1 hdc in next 10 st (leaving rest unworked). (10 total stitches)
Rows 2 – 3: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st. (10)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in next 6 st, hdc2tog. (8)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc in next 4 st, hdc2tog. (6)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, crochet 1 sc and 1 hdc tog, dc2tog, crochet 1 hdc and 1 sc tog. Finish off. (3)
Lay your hat flat with the first earflap in the front to determine where your other earflap will go. You will want your first earflap slightly off center (the shorter side will be the back of the hat, the longer will be the front) and start the second earflap directly across from the first. Join with sl st and follow instructions for Earflap 1 but DO NOT finish off.
Use F hook with red yarn to ch a pinstripe long enough to go across the top of the hat and overlap the edges by about an inch, hdc in each ch. If you need multiple colors in the pinstripe, you can do the middle stripe with sc and add a row of sc in another color along both sides of the middle pinstripe. Finish off leaving long tails for sewing onto hat.
Earholes (work 1 for each side):
With H hook, MC, ch2, work 8dc in circle for newborn – preschool sizes and 10dc in circle for child – large adult sizes. Sl st to 1st dc. Pull tail tight. Finish off leaving long tails for sewing onto hat.
Make sure you are on the right side of the hat and sc along the sides of the earflaps and around the bottom edge of the hat. Work 2 sc in both ends of the ear flap (st 1 and 3 of the 3 stitches of the last row). Join with sl st to 1st sc. Finish off.
Pin pinstripe and earholes into place; use a needle and matching yarn to sew on all appliqués. Do not pull the appliqués or the hat too tight while sewing as it will cause distortion.
Weave in all ends.
- For letters and numbers, I love the tutorials here: http://www.mooglyblog.com/the-moogly-crochet-alphabet/ and here: http://www.mooglyblog.com/the-moogly-crochet-numbers/
- For simple shapes like stars, I search Pinterest or Ravelry for crochet patterns or I just wing it myself.
- To crochet a mascot, I work them 1 of 2 ways. For simpler mascots, I break them down into simple shapes like triangles, squares and circles and then join them together. For more complicated ones, I create a graph in excel and crochet the entire mascot in sc with a small hook; I like using an F hook with worsted weight as it creates a nice tight fabric. Then you just sew it on like an applique.
- You can also use felt instead of crocheting letters, numbers, or mascots and either stitch them on with thread or use fabric glue to attach to the hat.
Copyright 2014 Colie’s Crochet. All rights reserved. You may use this pattern for personal use, gifts or charity items. Sales of finished items are permitted but designer requests that you link back to pattern and credit Colie’s Crochet with the original design. No part of this document may be reproduced or transmitted in any form including but not limited to electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise without prior written consent from the designer.
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