Last year, I designed the Leprechaun Beanie for my son after I made him a bobble beard hat. I loved the beard so much; I wanted to design a different beanie to go with it for St. Patrick’s Day. Now that my daughter is no longer a baby, I saw the need to add a little something for her as well.
For this tutorial, I will be working the Preschool size. All other sizes can be purchased in my pattern stores:
Sizes available in download:
- Newborn fits 14” head circumference
- Infant (3 months) fits 16” head circumference
- Baby (6 months) fits 18” head circumference
- Toddler (1–2 years) fits 19” head circumference
- Preschooler (3-5 years) fits 20” head circumference
- Child (6-10 years) fits 21” head circumference
- Teen/Small Adult fits 22” head circumference
- Medium Adult fits 23” head circumference
- Large Adult fits 24” head circumference
- I-5.5mm Hook, I use a Clover hook which I have found creates a slightly smaller gauge. I also tend to be a really tight crocheter. For these two reasons, I highly recommend working up a gauge swatch ahead of time. (See below in Pattern Notes for directions on working up a gauge swatch). You may need go up or down one or two hook sizes
- Worsted Weight Yarn, I used I Love This Yarn in Jellybean (up to 100g), Limelight (2g), Black (10g), and Yellow (1g). Aran yarn would be an acceptable substitute if you don’t have access to worsted weight yarn.
- Worsted Weight Yarn, Baby Bee Hushabye in Apricot Jam (up to 50g) You can use any yarn, I used a cotton/acrylic blend to give the “hair” a different texture from the hat
- Tapestry needle to sew on appliqués and to weave in ends
- 16 hdc and 12 rows = 4” square; use a different size hook or yarn to obtain proper gauge. (See below in Pattern Notes for directions on working up a gauge swatch)
Abbreviations and Stitches Used: (in US terminology)
- Approx – approximately
- Bpdc – back post double crochet
- Ch – chain stitch
- Dc – double crochet
- Fpdc – front post double crochet
- Hdc – half double crochet
- Rnd(s) – round(s)
- Sl st – Slip Stitch
- St – stitch
- Pattern is written in US terms
- Read pattern in its entirety first
- Always work a gauge swatch first. Each crocheter crochets with a different tension. I tend to crochet really tight. To complete a gauge swatch, I crochet a 5”x5” square in the stitch or pattern specified. This is so that at least the first and last row and the sides will not be included in my 4”x4” square. I then measure how many stitches and rows are in my square. If it is too small (you have more stitches or rows than specified), then you move up a hook size or two. If it is too big (you have less stitches or rows than specified), then you move down a hook size or two. The goal is to reach a gauge that is as close as possible to the pattern writer’s. It may seem like a waste of time, but I always find that it is worth it in the end; especially with fitted, wearable items. If you are not within ¼” when I give the diameter measurement for the crown of the hat in each pattern size, you should check your gauge and work a gauge swatch if you haven’t already.
- When working in rounds, I always start with a magic circle; there are many great tutorials on the internet
- When working in rounds, the ch1 or ch2 NEVER count as the first stitch
Preschooler (3-5 years)
Rnd 1: With Jellybean, magic circle, ch1, work 8 hdc in circle, join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. Pull tail tight. (8 total stitches)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc in each st around, join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. (16)
Rnd 3: Ch1, *work 2hdc in 1st st, work 1hdc in next st;* repeat from * to * until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. (24)
Rnd 4: Ch1, *work 2hdc in 1st st, work 1hdc in next 2 st;* repeat from * to * until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. (32)
Rnd 5: Ch1, *work 2hdc in 1st st, work 1hdc in next 3 st:* repeat from * to * until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. (40)
Rnd 6: Ch1, *work 2hdc in 1st st, work 1hdc in next 4 st:* repeat from * to * until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. (48)
Rnd 7: Ch1, *work 2hdc in 1st st, work 1hdc in next 5 st:* repeat from * to * until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. (56)
Rnd 8: Ch1, *work 2hdc in 1st st, work 1hdc in next 6 st:* repeat from * to * until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. (64)
*Pause here and make sure the crown measures approximately 5.25 – 5.5“ in diameter.
Rnd 9: Ch1, *work 2hdc in 1st st, work 1hdc in next 15 st:* repeat from * to * until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. (68)
Rnd 10: Ch1, work 1hdc in each st across until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc. (68)
Rnds 11-16: Ch1, work 1hdc in each st across until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc; switch to Black.
Rnds 17-18: Ch1, work 1hdc in each st across until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st hdc; switch to Jellybean.
Rnd 19: Ch2, work 1dc in each st across until last st; join with sl st to top of 1st dc.
Rnds 20-21: ch1, *work 1fpdc in first stitch, work 1bpdc in next st,* repeat from * to * until end; join with sl st to top of 1st st.
Piece should measure approx 6.5” from crown to bottom of hat when folded in half. Finish off.
Row 1: With yellow, ch 9 and dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn, ch 2
Row 2: Dc in 1st 3 stitches, leave remaining 4 dc unworked; turn, ch 6
Row 3: Dc in 2nd ch from hook, and in next 3 ch, dc in each of the last 3 dc, finish off leaving a long tail to sew onto hat.
Cut as many 36″ lengths as final stitch count and add 2 (for preschool size it would be 70)
Start by finding where you want the center part in both the front and back. Fold each strand over in half and attach each strand to each dc around with a sl stitch. Make sure that 2 strands are in the ‘parts’ of the hat in both the back and front.
Split hair in half and braid down the sides over where ears would be. Tie in knots at the end and trim ends.
Pin buckle where desired and sew on. Weave in any ends.
I found this cute shamrock tutorial here:
I did start with a magic circle rather than the ch 5 and also changed the stem a bit to sl st back to center rather than the sc. Just make and leave a long tail to sew onto the hat where desired.
I love this beard pattern, and use it for every kind of beard I make. You can find the tutorial here:
Stop at row before the moustache is made.
I have used 3 different ways to attach the beards:
- For an attached beard: Simply place the beard as desired and sew into the hat
- For a removable beard: Sew buttons onto the front side of beard. Create loops on the inside of the hat for the buttons to attach to. Sl st into the inside of the hat, chain just enough to fit snugly around button and sl st back around same stitch. Finish off and weave in ends.
- For another removable version, create loops that slip around the ears (this is my favorite way to make the beards): sl st into bottom corner of the beard and ch up to how many rows you made in the beard. For example, in the Small size, you stop after Row 7, so you ch 7. Then sl st to the top. Finish off and weave in ends.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern and it can be purchased in all sizes in any of my pattern stores:
Copyright 2014 Colie’s Crochet. All rights reserved. You may use this pattern for personal use, gifts or charity items. Sales of finished items are permitted but designer requests that you link back to pattern and credit Colie’s Crochet with the original design. No part of this document may be reproduced or transmitted in any form including but not limited to electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise without prior written consent from the designer.
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