The Cross-stitch Rose Beanie is a simple beanie-style or cloche hat in construction but add in the art of cross-stitch and it really puts it over the top. The hat features a rose that you crochet and then cross-stitch the rose design on afterwards. It is worked in sc to form the grid for the cross-stitch design. Inspired by Valentine’s Day, I created this hat for my 2-year-old daughter after seeing it in many items (mostly stool covers) that incorporated either a print or a true cross-stitch design.
For this tutorial, I will be working the Preschool size. All other sizes can be purchased in my pattern stores:
Sizes available in download:
- Newborn fits 14” head circumference
- Infant (3 months) fits 16” head circumference
- Baby (6 months) fits 18” head circumference
- Toddler (1–2 years) fits 19” head circumference
- Preschooler (3-5 years) fits 20” head circumference
- Child (6-10 years) fits 21” head circumference
- Teen/Small Adult fits 22” head circumference
- Medium Adult fits 23” head circumference
- Large Adult fits 24” head circumference
- Intermediate; for amigurumi-style joining and cross-stich design
- I hook (5.5mm); I use a Clover hook which I have found creates a slightly smaller gauge. I also tend to be a really tight crocheter. For these two reasons, I highly recommend working up a gauge swatch ahead of time. (See below in Pattern Notes for directions on working up a gauge swatch). You may need go up or down one or two hook sizes
- Worsted Weight Yarn; I used I Love This Yarn from Hobby Lobby. You will need up to 100 grams or 175 yards of main hat color, and 5 grams or 10 yards each 3 rose colors, and 2 leaf colors. Aran yarn would be an acceptable substitute if you don’t have access to worsted weight yarn.
- Stitch marker; I use a paperclip
- Tapestry or yarn needle to weave in ends and to apply cross-stitch design
- A graph for the rose can be found at the end of this pattern
- Don’t know how to cross-stitch on crochet? I found a simple tutorial here:
- 15 sc and 18 rows = 4” square; use a different size hook or yarn to obtain proper gauge (See below in Pattern Notes for directions on working up a gauge swatch)
Abbreviations and Stitches Used: (in US terminology)
- Ch – chain stitch
- MC – Magic Circle
- Rem – remain/remaining
- Rev sc – reverse single crochet (see below in pattern notes for directions)
- Rnd(s) – round(s)
- Sc – single crochet
- Sl st – Slip Stitch
- St – stitch
- Pattern is written in US terms
- Read pattern in its entirety first
- Always work a gauge swatch first. Each crocheter crochets with a different tension. I tend to crochet really tight. To complete a gauge swatch, I crochet a 5”x5” square in the stitch or pattern specified. This is so that at least the first and last row and the sides will not be included in my 4”x4” square. I then measure how many stitches and rows are in my square. If it is too small (you have more stitches or rows than specified), then you move up a hook size or two. If it is too big (you have less stitches or rows than specified), then you move down a hook size or two. The goal is to reach a gauge that is as close as possible to the pattern writer’s. It may seem like a waste of time, but I always find that it is worth it in the end; especially with fitted, wearable items. If you are not within ¼” when I give the diameter measurement for the crown of the hat in each pattern size, you should check your gauge and work a gauge swatch if you haven’t already.
- When working in rounds, I always start with a magic circle
- When working in rounds, the ch1 or ch2 NEVER count as the first stitch
- I work this hat in an amigurumi style which means you do not join at the end of each round or chain up to begin a new round. You use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each row. For example: Round 1 has 5 stitches and Round 2 has 10 stitches. At the end of Round 1, you do not join, you go on and work the first 2 stitches of Round 2 into the top of the first stitch of Round 1. Remove your stitch marker from Round 1 and place it in the first stitch of Round 2. Move your stitch marker at the beginning of each round
- How to do the reverse double crochet (or crab stitch): Ch1, working backwards, insert hook into both loops of previous stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over again and pull through both loops. It is a bit awkward at first but creates a slightly scalloped look to finish off any project.
Preschooler (3-5 years)
Rnd 1: MC, ch1, work 5 sc in circle. Pull tail tight. (5 total stitches)
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st across. (10)
Rnd 3: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next st;* repeat from * to * (15)
Rnd 4: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 2 st;* repeat from * to * (20)
Rnd 5: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 3 st;* repeat from * to * (25)
Rnd 6: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 4 st;* repeat from * to * (30)
Rnd 7: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 5 st;* repeat from * to * (35)
Rnd 8: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 6 st;* repeat from * to * (40)
Rnd 9: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 7 st;* repeat from * to * (45)
Rnd 10: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 8 st;* repeat from * to * (50)
Rnd 11: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 9 st;* repeat from * to * (55)
Rnd 12: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 10 st;* repeat from * to * (60)
Rnd 13: *Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 11 st;* repeat from * to * (65)
*Pause here and make sure the crown measures approximately 5.75“ in diameter.
Rnd 14: Work 2sc in 1st st, work 1sc in next 32 st, work 2sc in next st, work 1sc in next 31 st (67)
Rnd 15: Work 1sc into each st (67)
Rnds 16 – 32: Repeat Rnd 15 for approximately 17 more rounds or until piece measures just short of 7” from crown to bottom of hat when folded in half.Work sl st into next 2 st to finish off the spiral.
Rnd 33: Work 1 reverse sc in each st across hat. Finish off.
Adding the Cross-stitch
The rose design for this hat is 21 stitches in length by 20 stitches in height. To add it into your hat, do the following:
- When working cross-stitch onto crochet, the sc fabric we created for the hat is treated just like embroidery or cross-stitch linen or other fabric. Each sc counts as one square and an ‘x’ is worked into the corners of each square. See the tutorial listed above in the Other Resources section.
- To fit the rose design onto the hat, I usually start at the last sc row at the bottom of the hat and work my way up. This is especially useful in the smaller sizes because the rose takes up one entire side of the hat. For example: The child size has approximately 35 rows. In the larger sizes (child – large adult), I like to have 2 rows of the main color at the end. So I would start my stitches in row 33. Because there is no seam in this hat, you can start your stitches anywhere on the hat. You may also need to skip some stitches due to the top rows having less stitches than the bottom rows. Just do what looks right for your hat.
- I typically work my largest color first, then work my way through each color in terms of the amount of stitches I will need. I leave a 6” tail at the beginning and end to weave in later. I also recommend weaving in your ends as you go or at least when finished with each color.
The only finishing needed is weaving in all of the ends left after either the cross-stitch is done.
Thanks to my wonderful pattern testers, I have added some ideas on how to add extra embellishments to the hat!
- Add a pom pom on top of the hat
- Add some stripes to the last couple rows at the bottom of the hat in the same colors you chose for the rose. (I only recommend this for the larger sizes so that the rose still fits on the hat)
- Finish off and do the reverse sc in a coordinating color from the rose design
- Add earflaps to the hat to make it a winter hat. You can add them very simply by stopping where you finish off the spiral of the hat and begin with 8hdc for baby sizes, 10 hdc for preschool and child sizes, and 12 hdc for teen and adult sizes. Turn and work a decrease (hdc2tog) into the beginning of each row until you reach the last row (1 hdc2tog) and finish off. You are basically creating a triangle. Lay your hat flat with the first earflap in the front to determine where your other earflap will go. You will want your first earflap slightly off center (the shorter side will be the back of the hat, the longer will be the front) and start the second earflap directly across from the first. You can sc (or work the reverse sc from this pattern) all the way around the hat either in the hat color or a color from the rose to finish it off. Add mini pom poms, tassels, braids or curlicues to the bottom of each earflap if desired.
- Add a wide brim to the hat (I only recommend this for the larger sizes so that the rose still fits on the hat): Stop adding length to the hat at about an inch before indicated in the directions. To start the brim, sc in the front loops only for one row and add in increases to continue the normal pattern increase. For example, in the medium adult size, we stopped increasing at 78. I would add in 2 increases in this first round of the brim to bring the stitch count up to 80. In all consecutive rows, you will continue working in both loops. Continue adding increases evenly in each row to keep the brim round and flat. In our medium adult size hat, the next rounds would have 85, 90, 95, etc. Continue increasing until you reach the desired length of brim and finish off. You can even use the reverse sc to finish off the brim.
Or you can download a pdf copy here:
I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern and it can be purchased in all sizes in any of my pattern stores:
Copyright 2014 Colie’s Crochet. All rights reserved. You may use this pattern for personal use, gifts or charity items. Sales of finished items are permitted but designer requests that you link back to pattern and credit Colie’s Crochet with the original design. No part of this document may be reproduced or transmitted in any form including but not limited to electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise without prior written consent from the designer.
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